 How to build RAMPS for home accessibilityIndex to All Pages
Index Article from Ridgedale YMCA Newsletter, fall 1992. ACTING ON ACCESSIBILITY
Through the National Youth
Leadership Project, YMCA's Minnesota Leadership for Empowerment
Program, and the Center For Independent Living, a hands-on project
for an inclusive group of youth was undertaken this summer. The
project was to build wheelchair ramp sections. While planning
the project, it was discovered that some of the participants helping
to make the sections would themselves benefit from having a ramp.
It seemed only natural for the group to build a ramp where the
ramp would be appreciated day in and day out, by a youth, who
himself, was there to help others. So the task was set and everyone
involved worked with sincere dedication to making sure a quality
ramp was built, and it was. The Star Tribune even captured the moment in the paper. What a reward for a job well done. Not only was the youth excited to be able to easily enter and exit from his home without help, and spent hours at first doing just that, but his parents were also grateful for the group's devotion to the project. Since the project's completion, more and more families have come forward expressing their needs for a wheelchair ramp as well. That is a good sign that this project could remain ongoing, and passing the knowledge of ramp construction on to more groups will hopefully keep it going and going and going... Article accompanied by picture of "The Volunteer Ramp Building Team from National Youth Leadership, YMCA Leadership for Empowerment, and Center for Independent Living Programs."
howtobuildRAMPSforhomeaccessibilityFourth EditionTHE HOME RAMP PROJECTMETROPOLITAN CENTER FOR INDEPENDENT LIVING
John D. Walsh This unique and creative approach builds on the strengths of the community. It involves volunteers, ensures quality and safety, and can be adapted to an individual's situation. One of the most notable characteristics of the design is the modular system which allows the ramp to be reused time and again. That same design also allows families to construct ramps at a much faster pace, when time is of the essence to get loved ones back together again. I applaud the Metropolitan Center for Independent Living for their innovative approach to increased independence and access for people with disabilities. Sincerely
JIM RAMSTAD JR:lo ACCESSIBLE RAMPSVolunteers: The consumer is actively involved and utilizes their own support system; such as family friends, church members, etc. Lower Cost: Consumer and volunteer involvement cuts cost in half! Quality: Professionally designed and engineered. Supervision assures compliance with all building codes and proper construction. Versatile: Modular units can be easily used at other locations Reuse is feasible and cost effective.
Community Participation -- page 2 Design Overview -- page 3 Codes and Permits -- page 14 Ordering Materials -- page 18 Building Process -- page 21 Boardwalks -- page 33b Maintenance -- page 40 Engineering notes and Drawings -- page 41 Design Building Process for Long-Tread, Low-Riser Steps -- page 56 ResourcesCentral Minnesota Center for Independent Living 600 25th Avenue South, suite 109 St. Cloud, MN 56301 612/255-1882 Voice/TDD 612/255-5137 FAX
Center for Independent Living of
Northeastern Minnesota, loc.
Southwestern Center Independent
Living (SWCIL)
Southern Minnesota Independent
Living Enterprises & Services
Metropolitan Center for
Independent Living (MCIL)
Southeastern Minnesota Center for
Independent Living (SEMCIL)
Options, Interstate Resource
Center for Independent Living
Breaking New Ground
Freedom Resource Center
Minnesota Housing Finance Contact the National Council on Independent Living (NCIL) for the name of Independent Living Center nearest you.
NCIL
This is a new concept in wheelchair ramp design. Modular components are used.
No footings are required. The ramps are reusable and very
adaptable to varied home situations.
The ramps are built quickly, safely and easily with the help of
volunteers, informal support systems and families.
This unique process makes the ramps very affordable to all.
This program started as a joint project of the Metropolitan Center for
Independent Living, Minnesota Division of Rehabilitation Services,
Multiple Sclerosis Society and United Handicapped Federation.
The Ramp Project began in
the summer of 1991. We wanted to lower the costs of residential
ramps, increase the speed of completion and involve consumers
in an active role to solve their ramp access needs. The concept
was to have one paid construction-site supervisor who would assist
volunteers in the building of post and beam wheelchair ramps.
Money was donated for a complete tool kit and an access design
specialist was hired to design and supervise construction. Costs
were significantly reduced and ten ramps were completed by mid-December
(before frost).
The early success and increase
in demands led to discussion about how to build in the winter
months and how to make these ramps available for temporary usage.
The modular system was the result. A professional engineer was
hired to review, modify and provide evaluations of the design.
The report was then reviewed by the Minnesota Department of Administration
(copy of letter on page 16).
The final design has a 60
lbs. per square foot live-load capacity and does not need to be
placed on frost footings. The design works well for short and
long term use. The combination of supervised volunteers and a
modular system has led to construction of hundreds of ramps in
the metro area. Many ramps have already been reused at new locations
at considerable savings.
The purpose of this manual
is to distribute this knowledge and to encourage organizations
on how to provide support for ramp projects of their own and their
communities.
The Ramp Project goal is to
help individuals and organizations increase quality of life and
independence.
RECYCLING ACCESS - COMMUNITY PARTICIPATION
IN RAMP - BUILDING PROJECTS
This is a new project developed to
provide wheelchair ramps for home access to people who have mobility
needs. By recruiting the services of an access specialist and
providing assistance in recruiting volunteers, training in basic
construction techniques for volunteers and onsite construction
assistance to volunteers, the cost of home ramps is significantly
reduced. This frees up funds for other access requirements the
person may have and allows more people with access problems to
be served.
The project is co-sponsored by the
Multiple Sclerosis Society of Minnesota, the Metropolitan Center
for Independent Living, the United Handicapped Federation and
the Minnesota Division of Rehabilitation Services.
Construction crews of 3 to 4 volunteers
will be recruited for each ramp project. The time commitment
will vary depending on the complexity of the ramp design. General
skills required are post-hole digging, shoveling, using a power
saw, nailing and lifting. We may eventually be involved in minor
concrete work. This is a physically demanding project with eight-hour
days scheduled. Volunteers with endurance limitations may wish
to consult with project staff prior to volunteering.
This is a challenging and very rewarding
volunteering opportunity. You will leave the project with the
satisfaction of having contributed to a tangible, well-designed,
well-built, functional access ramp, as well as the knowledge of
having provided a fundamental necessity to someone.
Article from Ridgedale YMCA Newsletter, fall 1992.
ACTING ON ACCESSIBILITY
Through the National Youth
Leadership Project, YMCA's Minnesota Leadership for Empowerment
Program, and the Center For Independent Living, a hands-on project
for an inclusive group of youth was undertaken this summer. The
project was to build wheelchair ramp sections. While planning
the project, it was discovered that some of the participants helping
to make the sections would themselves benefit from having a ramp.
It seemed only natural for the group to build a ramp where the
ramp would be appreciated day in and day out, by a youth, who
himself, was there to help others. So the task was set and everyone
involved worked with sincere dedication to making sure a quality
ramp was built, and it was.
The Star Tribune even captured
the moment in the paper. What a reward for a job well done. Not
only was the youth excited to be able to easily enter and exit
from his home without help, and spent hours at first doing just
that, but his parents were also grateful for the group's devotion
to the project. Since the project's completion, more and more
families have come forward expressing their needs for a wheelchair
ramp as well. That is a good sign that this project could remain
ongoing, and passing the knowledge of ramp construction on to
more groups will hopefully keep it going and going and going...
Article accompanied by picture of "The Volunteer Ramp Building
Team from National Youth Leadership, YMCA Leadership for
Empowerment, and Center for Independent Living Programs."
Community ParticipationThe purpose of this manual is not only to instruct individuals on how to build their own ramp, but also to encourage organizations on how to become involved in meeting community needs. Lower cost, reusable ramps give people more choices in their living situations and allow for significant cost savings each time a ramp component is reused. The construction ideas in this manual can be used by anyone interested in assisting people with mobility impairment. The history of the Ramp Project demonstrates one way that organizations can be involved. From its beginning in August, 1991, the Ramp Project has benefited from the cooperative efforts and contributions of many organizations and agencies. The start of the project was made possible by the donation of $1,000 from the Minnesota Multiple Sclerosis Society for a tool kit to be used. The ideas created were modified through various state agency discussions, the Metropolitan Center for Independent Living staff, local building officials and private non-profit groups. A key development was the willingness and ability of the Metropolitan Center for Independent Living (MCIL) to provide insurance coverage for volunteers working on ramp projects, as well as for the general liability coverage. Available low-cost insurance makes it possible to rent ramps to consumers and third party funders. This means a great cost savings for people with tight budgets and restrictive needs.
MCIL's rental policy allows payments
to stop after insurance, labor and materials costs have been recovered.
The user can continue to use the ramp as long as it is needed
at that site. MCIL provides inspection and maintenance service
to insure the ramp's continued safety.
A FEW FACTS ON INSURANCE... We have arranged for four types of insurance.
MCIL rents out ramps on a limited basis.
Design Overview
This chapter reprints materials regarding
ramps from the Minnesota Housing Finance Agency Home Accessibility
Information Series and from excerpts The Breaking New
Ground Resource Center, A Special Technical Report Plowshares
#11: Guidelines for Construction of Ramps Used in Rural Settings,
in order to familiarize you with ramp design principles.
Both articles were written before the development of modular ramp
systems.
From Plowshares #11:
Ramps are an important feature
in accessing a home or agricultural building. This applies not
only to people who use wheelchairs but also to those who have
difficulty climbing stairs, such as people who have arthritis
or hemiplegia and those who use walkers, crutches or canes. To
be safe and most effective, ramps should be built with a few basic
guidelines in mind. Slope: Slope is the term used to describe how steep a ramp is. The slope is extremely important because it affects how difficult it is to travel up and down the ramp. If the slope is too steep, the ramp may be too difficult for someone to use or may even be unsafe.
Comparison of 1:12 and 1:20 slopes A more gentle slope has less resistance for either walking or wheeling.
The 1 to 12 slope should be seen as
the steepest slope to be built and
may be too steep for some people.
Width: The
width of the ramp should be at least 36 inches. Before building a ramp ask this question: "Is a ramp the best solution?" There may be alternatives available that will do a better job of meeting the needs of all of the people involved. Sometimes a new set of long-trend low-riser steps can be built for a person using canes, crutches or a walker. Sometimes, a lifting device can be used rather than building a ramp. Consider the length of time the access solution is likely to be needed. If the anticipated need is quite short, it may be cost-effective to consider alternate living arrangements. Many factors need to be evaluated in order to come up with the solution that best meets your needs. Assistance for access planning may be available from a Center for Independent Living in your area. Look on page ii of this manual for a listing of Centers in Minnesota as well as other resource information. Consider these points once you have decided that a ramp is the best solution.
Getting a Ramp Built: With information and materials available from most local building supply stores, an individual with ordinary carpentry skills can fabricate his or her own ramp. This is clearly demonstrated by the millions of homemade decks that have been constructed over the past few years. If a person lacks the basic carpentry skills, a local carpenter or contractor should have little trouble constructing a ramp. However, don't assume the builder you choose will have knowledge of the guidelines for ramps included in this publication. If the builder is unfamiliar with ramps for use by people with disabilities, a copy of this publication or similar information regarding guidelines for ramp construction should be provided to the builder to avoid an unsafe or unusable structure. Remember who the user will be-it won't be the builder.
In cases where financial resources
are limited, the ramp might become a public service project of
a local service organization, school carpentry class, carpenter's
union, or vocational agriculture class. Contact one of these groups
or the local Easter Seal Society, Office of Vocational Rehabilitation,
or volunteer hotline for possible assistance. 
For information on long-tread, low-riser steps, see page 56. The modular ramp design creates the possibility that ramps will become easily recyclable The design allows flexibility in creating various length runs of sloped surface and pre-made modules can be matched to custom segments built on-site to create the needed ramp. The width of the ramp can be tailored to individual needs by changing the width of each module. Usually the Ianding at the doorway will require customization and sometimes the ground level end of the ramp will need to be modified to meet the site conditions. Having reusable components for the majority of the ramp reduces costs and increases the possibility of obtaining either short-term or long term access. 
From Minnesota Housing
Finance Agency, Home Accessibility Series: #3 Ramps
|
![[image: photo of ramp in place]](graphics/ramp-iii.jpg)
![[sketch of |___ compared to |______ ]](graphics/ramp-3.gif)
 |
Slope: A ramp's slope - the angle of the inclined surfaces - is perhaps a project's most critical consideration, because of its impact on layout requirements, the expense involved, and the ramp's ultimate usefulness. Slope is the right-angle relationship of vertical height (rise) to horizontal length or projection (run). It is usually expressed as a ratio of these two measurements, with the rise figure frequently set at a unit of one. For example, a slope of 1:12 means that as each dimension unit of height changes, the other right-angle side projects out 12 units, which together result in a certain angle for the inclined, third side of the triangle. |
|
It's important to point out
that the larger the run figure in a slope ratio, the gentler
the angle for the
inclined surface will be - a 1:16 slope, for example, is not as
steep as a 1:12 slope. This fact is a source of initial confusion
for many people, who conceptualize that a bigger number must mean
a steeper slope. A comparative drawing (below) shows that it's
exactly the opposite situation. |
SAFETY ADVISORY:There may be a temptation to build a ramp that is steeper than the recommended 1 to 12 minimum in order to conserve space or reduce costs. Before deciding to build such a ramp, remember that the steeper the ramp is, the more dangerous it becomes to anyone using it. Ramp Project personnel have replaced steep ramps that have caused falls resulting in serious injuries and ramps that were so steep that the person needing it could not use it independently. |
The issue of how to choose
a slope for a residential ramp isn't clearly addressed in the
codes or handbooks, and is another source of confusion for many
people. Minnesota has a section in its building code - Chapter
1340 - that mandates the design for certain accessibility features
that must be installed in public/commercial settings. Chapter
1340 mandates slope ratios for ramps built for public/commercial
properties within the state, but single-family residences are
exempt from having to comply with these code requirements because
each ramp's design must be tailored for a particular person's
and home's circumstances.
For ramps in public/commercial settings, separate maximum slopes for exterior and interior ramps are actually set in the code. Interior and protected ramps may have slopes up to a 1:12, while exterior ramps (which in precise code language are referred to as "walks") must have gentler slope not exceeding 1:20. Because the code uses a 1:20 slope for exterior ramps, many people make the assumption that this is the only slope that can be used at houses as well. |
DO NOT BUILD RAMPS THAT ARE STEEPER THAN 1 TO 12Safety and independence are far more important than short-term savings or having a little less space. | In actuality, ramps for homes can be built at many different slopes and still be "right". For many households, the selection process requires balancing the desire for a very gentle slope with the amount of construction/cost involved, yard space that must be used, and appearance. The one general guideline that should be followed is that the slope should not exceed 1:12. Slopes steeper than this may be beyond the strength of many people using manual chairs, and may also cause an ascending electric wheelchair to tip backwards from a weight imbalance due to the low position in which the chair's battery pack is carried. They can also cause or aggravate back problems for helpers pushing a chair up a ramp, or controlling a chair traveling down one. |
The slope determination process
starts by first establishing how much total rise has to be covered.
Two measurements must be checked to determine this figure. The
first figure is the distance from the exit door's sill down to
the ground, or "grade", at the house's foundation. Since
a ramp is constructed a certain distance out from the house into
the yard, though, any change in grade in the area for the ramp's
construction also must be taken into account. For example, if
the change in grade from a home's doorsill to the ground at the
foundation is 29", and the yard out where the ramp will be
sited is flat-no change in grade-then the total rise that must
be covered is 29". However, if the change in grade at another
house's foundation is 29" (a), but the yard where the ramp
will be located drops away another 13" (b), then the total
rise that must be covered is 42" (c). (See below)
|
Once total rise (typically
stated in inches) is determined, it is then multiplied by the
slope (in inches) chosen, to obtain the total amount of horizontal
projection (in inches) required to achieve the particular slope.
Dividing this figure by 12 converts it into a more workable measurement
of feet of horizontal projection required. For example, say that
a ramp with a 1:12 slope is to be built at the home with a 29"
total rise described above. The required horizontal projection
is 29" X 12" = 348", or when converted to feet,
29'. Say, however, that a ramp with a gentler slope-a 1:16-is
desired. 29" of total rise X 16" of slope = 464",
and when divided by 12 to convert to feet, equals over 38 feet
of horizontal projection needed.
It's important to note that
the resulting figure is a measurement of amount of horizontal
projection the layout must contain to achieve a desired slope.
It is not a measurement of distance traveled along the inclined
surface, as some people mistakenly believe, and it doesn't
include any distances/areas required for necessary landings-these
are extra. |
To compute Slope Ratio
Each inch of height requires a certain number of inches in distance to provide a slope. Multiply inches of rise (29" as an example) by the ratio you want, getting inches first and then dividing by 12 to convert to feet.
1 to 20 1 to 12
20 rise 12
x29 length x29
______ (inches) _____
580 348
divide by 12
(to convert to feet)
48'4" 29'
LENGTH OF SLOPE IN FEET
|
Top Landings: Top
landings should be nearly flush with the exterior door threshold.
1/2" is the typical maximum, particularly when a wheelchair
user is involved-anything larger will abruptly stop a chair's
relatively small front wheel, or is a tripping hazard for walkers.
Pay attention, too, to threshold specs if a new primary door is
being installed. If a prehung unit's going in, most don't have
the low threshold that's needed here.
For homes on footed foundations,
it's advisable in most parts of the state to bolt the top
landing into the home's foundation. This will avoid the potential
problem of the relatively lightweight ramp landing lifting up
due to frost heave and jamming under an outswinging door (like
a storm door). For unfooted structures, or temporary foundations
such as mobile homes on blocks, bolting the landing may still
be appropriate, but the ramp shouldn't be footed for the opposite
reason. Local soil conditions -e.g., clay vs. loam- will also
play a definite role here.
Top landings at minimum should
be at least 60" X 60" if there is an outswinging door,
with at least a 12" to 24" of "elbow room"
space provided off the door's handle side, particularly for a
person using mobility equipment. These dimensions give enough
room for a person to move off to the side while opening the door
without having to back up to get out of the way of its swing.
If there is no outswinging door, the landing may be somewhat
narrower- probably 48" at minimum.
Intermediate Landings:
Intermediate landings
for a long, in-line run of ramp can have the same width as the
running surface's, and length can range from 36 " to 60"-the
slope chosen is a factor to account for here, with a steeper slope
like a 1:12 requiring a longer distance in which to stop when
descending. A rough guideline to use is to install an intermediate
landing if a section of ramp covers more than a 30" change
in rise, but persons with limited stamina/control may need one
sooner than this. Dimensions for intermediate landings where
a direction change occurs depend on ramp width and the user's
circumstances. When a chair user's involved, a 48" X 48"
landing for a 90 degree turn is comfortable; for an 180 degree
turn, 48" by twice the width of the two ramp sections is
typical.
Bottom Landings: For
bottom landings, typical minimum dimensions when in-line travel
is involved are as wide as the ramp by about 48" long for
someone walking, and about 60" to 72" for a chair user.
Larger-width landings may be called for if the person has to
make a direction change (e.g. 90-degree turn). Make sure
the ramp/landing intersection doesn't have a "lip" greater
than 1/2" which would become a tripping/rolling hazard.
Rampway Widths and Running Surface Features
Running
surface widths can range from 36" to 48", depending
on the personal assistance or mobility equipment involved. 36"
may be appropriate for someone walking or using a cane, crutches,
or a walker. (32" may be appropriate for persons who need
to lean on both railings when moving.) 42" to 48" is
appropriate for someone using a wheelchair, or where a person
can walk with assistance at the side.
Surface height changes from
the doorsill and top landing to the bottom landing shouldn't vary
more than 1/2". Higher bumps can abruptly stop a wheelchair,
or trip people walking, particularly those with an irregular gait.
All ramp runs and landings
must be level from side to side. A cross slope (slope perpendicular
to the direction of travel) can upset a person's balance and require
more strength and effort on the person's "downhill"
side. Even the almost unnoticeable slope (1:96) built into public
sidewalks to aid with water runoff can be tiring for a wheelchair
user to negotiate.
It is advisable for ramps to have an "anti-slip" running surface; depending on local building code enforcement, this may be a requirement. On wooden ramps, treatments that are used include commercially-available "grit" tapes, strips of rolled roofing or shingling, or laying down coats of polyurethane into which sand is sprinkled. For concrete ramps, the surface can be brushed with a broom before it hardens to create a rough texture.
Safety Features: Installation
of safety features including handrails, guardrails, "crutch
stops", guttering and sheltering should also be considered
for a rampbuilding project.
Handrails should account for
variables including a person's height, arm and hand strength,
how the rails are used, and any local building code requirements
that may apply. For example, standing users who lean on rails
for support with arms extended often need a very different rail
height than that used by persons propelling a wheelchair by pulling
along the rails. 31 " to 34" is the typical height
range, and the rails should be capable of supporting a 250 lb.
load at any point along the length. The diameter should be no
more than 1 1/2", and may need to be smaller for children
or adults with impaired grip strength. The preferred material
is wood. Metal piping is sometimes used, but may present a problem
for exposed skin in the wintertime.
Guardrails and edging called
"crutch stops" or "bump boards" are also good
safety factors that keep users from slipping off the side of a
ramp or landing. Guardrails are mounted along the structure's
perimeter, usually at a seated person's knee height-18" to
20" or so. "Crutch stops" are curbing mounted on,
or a few inches above, the surface of the structure's perimeter.
Two additional safety features
to consider are guttering and sheltering. If not present, roof
gutters may be advisable for ramps running close to a home to
handle water runoff that may create slipping hazards. In cases
where the person's mobility is severely restricted, some form
of rampway sheltering may also need to be considered. Depending
on siting and home roofline, one strategy for ramps hugging a
house is to build a small extension off the roof. Support for
the lower edge can be provided by extending the ramp's posting
vertically.
Layout Issues: The three most common ramp layouts are:
![[sketch of straight ramp layout]](graphics/ramp10b1.gif)
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|
![[sketch of dog-leg or L-shape ramp layout]](graphics/ramp10b2.gif)
|
|
![[sketch of switchback ramp layout]](graphics/ramp10b3.gif)
|
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Generally, ramps follow a
path of travel frequently used by all household members, such
as from the kitchen to the garage or driveway. However, using
a main pathway may create a problem for some households, making
it advisable to locate the ramp at a lesser-traveled exit. In
some situations, though, none of a home's exits provide a workable
ramping option. In these cases it may be necessary to create a
new exit. One possibility to consider is converting an existing
window into a new doorway-the window area already may have some
of the structural framing a doorway needs.
To incorporate a run of stairs
off the top landing of the ramp is a good design feature to include,
enabling other household members and visitors to enter/exit directly
instead of having to use the rampway.
The visual impact of a ramp may be a factor to consider in choosing a layout. Straight ramp runs, particularly those that project directly out into a yard or are extremely long, may look unattractive, while those sited close to/around a house may have a more pleasant appearance. Landscaping (bushes and plants, timbers, etc.) and other finish details (e.g. skirting to mask the area below) can improve appearance as well. Is there a concern about security and "curbside" appearance? If so, locating the ramp to the side or back of a property may minimize the visual indication of a resident with a disability.
Locating the ramp to take advantage of southern exposure so the sun can help dry the surface or melt snow is another factor to keep in mind. Additionally, positioning that takes advantage of neighborhood/lot wind patterns may aid in clearing snow and leaves. There also may be locations near trees or bushes that should be avoided for the leaves or pods they drop.
Don't forget to give some
thought to the impact a ramp's location will have on competing
yard uses in the area. For example, running a ramp from a door
straight through the back yard to the garage may be the most efficient
and least costly layout. If this placement limits games and other
recreation activities that frequently have gone on in this area,
is the tradeoff acceptable? How about ease in mowing? Getting
back and forth between a garden area over on one side and where
tools are stored on the other?
| Most landings are designed as squares or rectangles, with rampways usually intersecting them head-on. The resulting seams joining the flat and inclined portion cut perpendicular across the path of travel. If a landing isn't square or rectangular, and/or if a rampway approaches a landing at other than head-on, special attention must be given to making sure that the intersections of the flat and inclined portions still cut perpendicular across the path of travel. If they don't, and if persons using wheelchairs are involved, safety problems may result. The reason for this has to do with the timing when each of the chair's front wheels crosses over the boundary between the flat and inclined surfaces. When the two portions join head on, both wheels pass over the change in surface at the same time. However, if an angled intersection is present, one wheel crosses this boundary ahead of the other, resulting in an imbalance that could potentially cause a descending chair to tip. |
|
Angled landings also require
special attention. Seams between the flat and inclined portions
in this type of construction similarly must join perpendicular
to the direction of travel. When wheelchair users are involved,
the landing additionally must provide enough space for rolling
onto the landing, turning slightly, and rolling off. This is
usually about 48" in each direction of travel. |
Berming: Berming
can be a good, economical, way to handle total rises that don't
exceed about 18". The grade along the path of travel is
built up with dirt or sand, then a walk is installed out of concrete,
blacktop, patio blocks, or even treated wood decking. The yard
can be finished as desired with new sod, reseeding, and plantings.
By blending in with the house and yard, the "ramping"
provided in this manner is usually much less visible than a frame
structure.
Post-and-Beam: A
majority of ramps built at homes are of the "post-and-beam"
construction type. These structures are typically built with
wooden framing, but metal framing is infrequently used. When
wood is used, lumber should be of a species naturally resistant
to decay (e.g. redwood or cedar), or treated with chemical preservatives.
There are two common ways to install the posts. One is to sink timbers vertically into the ground below the frost line into holes filled with sand, gravel, or concrete. The other is to pour concrete into the hole and install an anchoring bracket on top into which the posts are bolted. Horizontal "beams" are then attached between posts to frame the perimeter for landings, and between rampway posts to create the running surface support. Finally, the "joists" providing support for landing and ramp surfaces are installed at right angle to the beams.
Post-and-beam rampway/landing surfacing is typically also installed out of wood, infrequently, out of metal grilling, or concrete over a corrugated metal or plywood base. When wood is used, the preferred method is to lay dimension lumber (e.g. 2" x 6"s ) perpendicular to the direction of travel, spaced with a slight gap (about 1/4 ") through which rain/snow/dirt can fall. Plywood is sometimes used, but problems develop because it can separate over time, and its surface can become very slippery with ice/rain. Indoor/outdoor carpeting is also sometimes installed, but similarly, it's not appropriate for ramps exposed to the weather because it can stretch over time, and collect/hold water.
A post-and-beam bottom landing may be created as a continuation of the surface decking (e.g. a "duckwalk"), or out of concrete. Specs for concrete are essentially the same as for a typical sidewalk-the pathway is excavated approximately 4", sand/wire mesh is laid to give a good foundation, then 3" to 4" of concrete is poured with expansion joints every 36" to 48".
Round, wood handrails may
be installed, or 2"x4" lumber notched on one side to
create a finger-hold area can also be mounted. Guardrails commonly
are out of 2"x 4" lumber, crutch stops out of 1"x
2" lumber.
Solid Construction: This
type of ramping is typically built out of concrete, and while
infrequently used at homes, is the most stable and probably most
efficient for wider widths (e.g. 42" to 60"). It is
constructed by erecting temporary forms (usually wooden), into
which rubble (field stone, broken concrete blocks, bricks, etc.)
and then concrete are poured to create the one-piece structure.
Concrete ramp design is best done by masonry professionals, because
of the possible need for reinforcing, expansion joints, and structural
tie-in with the house.
Codes and Permits
Is a building permit needed
for your ramp building project?
The only way to find out is to
contact the building code office for your community.
Telephone numbers are listed in the Government section of the phone book under Building Inspection or call the administrative office, and they will direct you. When speaking with local building code officials, be sure to inform them if the ramp will be temporary or permanent because this may have a bearing on whether or not a building permit is needed.
It is strongly advised that you work with the local officials because they can help you determine if a permit is needed, as well as with information regarding specific construction questions. If you do need a permit, it will be very helpful to have a site plan, elevation plan, framing plan, and estimated costs for the ramp. Information from this manual can be used in the application process. Be sure to take the engineering documentation with you for your plan review. (Sheets signed by Jeffrey Rudin, professional engineer, who created the documentation, are on page 43).
Ramp project personnel worked closely with local building officials and the Minnesota State Department of Administration during the design process to insure that the ramp design presented here is acceptable under Minnesota guidelines. Other states may differ in circumstances which may require variations in this design. Please check with your local officials before you begin a ramp.
INFORMATION YOU WILL NEED FOR A PERMIT
- · Site Plan:
- A sketch of home and lot showing where lot lines are and where ramp will be placed. Indicate height, length and width of ramp.
- · Determine Slope Ratio:
- · Framing Plan:
- A sketch of how your ramp will be built. It is helpful to copy pages from this manual to describe components.
- · Engineering
- Use the Rudin Structure found on page 43.
- · Estimated Cost
- This is needed to determine the cost of permit.
- · Photographs:
- Although not required, they would be helpful when discussing your project with building officials.
More Permit Information
During your plan review, the
building official may have an opinion regarding the slope at which
your ramp should be built. While the Minnesota codes for public
settings require a 1 to 20 slope
for outside ramps, and various design codes recommend a 1 to 12
slope, private homes
do not have to comply with those provisions.
(See "Other" on page 17).
The slope of the ramp you are building should be
determined by the needs of the user and a 1 to 20
slope may be appropriate.
However, a shorter ramp with a slope anywhere between 1 to 12
and 1 to 20
may also be appropriate.(
See the chapter on Design
for more information
on slope and other considerations.) You should be able to show
that the slope you have chosen is both safe and convenient for
the person using the ramp. If you wish to build a ramp that is
steeper than 1 to 20 and
the building official indicates that you cannot, you may wish
to refer them to Chapter 1340.0200 Subp.
2. A.
This information has been
distributed to building officials throughout Minnesota. Several
building officials have provided ideas and assistance during the
development of the Ramp Project. Local officials are available
to review your ramp plans. They can help you build the best ramp
possible to suit your needs.
PLEASE REMEMBER:
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THIS MODULAR RAMP SHOULD NOT BE CHANGED...
The modular ramp design insures the strength and stability needed for safe use.
Changing or eliminating any of the components can reduce the structural integrity of the ramp and create dangerous situations
If you are building the ramp outside of Minnesota, be sure to check with your local building officials regarding this design and their requirements by law.
A review of the building code requirements for the modular wheelchair ramp.
![[Minnesota State Seal]](graphics/rmp-16s.gif)
A LETTER FROM
THE STATE OF MINNESOTA,
DEPARTMENT OF ADMINISTRATION,
BUILDING CODES AND STANDARDS
DIVISION, SEPTEMBER 24,1992
Building Permits: Uniform Building Code (UBC) section 301(b)7 exempts "platforms, walks and driveways not more than 30 inches above grade" from the requirement for a building permit. However, this section makes it clear that the work must still comply with the applicable provisions of the building code as well as any other laws or ordinances of the jurisdiction.
Land Use/Zoning Permits: Local government regulates land use through zoning codes. There may be restrictions on distance to property lines, maximum area and height, etc. Specific requirements will vary among jurisdictions so it is necessary that the appropriate local government department be contacted prior to beginning construction. Permits, including a site plan showing the location of the proposed ramp, may be required to verify compliance with zoning code provisions.
Guardrails: UBC 1711 states in part that open and glazed sides of stairways, landings and ramps, which are more than 30 inches above grade shall be protected by a guardrail. When a guardrail is required on a ramp or landing serving a single family dwelling, the guardrail must not be less than 36 inches high with intermediates spaced such that a sphere six** inches in diameter cannot pass through. The dimensions must be on the plan when this requirement is applicable.
** As of March 20, 1995, the Minnesota State Building Code changed to require intermediates to be installed to prohibit passage of a 4" sphere
Ramps: According to UBC 3307, ramps used as exits from the building shall comply with this section.
Subpart (c)
states that: the slope of the ramp shall not be steeper than
1 vertical to 8 horizontal. The slope should be identified on
the plans. (Note: this vertical to horizontal slope is not
recommended because it is too steep. Minimum recommended slope
is 1-12).
Subpart (e) states that when the slope of the ramp is steeper than 1 vertical to 15 horizontal, a handrail must be installed. The handrail must comply with Section 3306(j) and be mounted not less than 34 inches nor more than 38 inches above the ramp surface. The handrail must be dimensioned on the plan.
Subpart (g) states that the surface of the ramp shall be roughened or shall be of slip-resistant materials. This should be identified on the plan.
Weather Exposure: UBC 2516(c)11 requires that the members which form the structural supports be of approved treated wood (or of natural resistance to decay). It appears that this has been clearly covered in the plans.
Footings: UBC 2907(b) exception 1 permits a one-story wood building not over 400 square feet in area to be supported on a wood foundation plate when approved by the building official. In our opinion, the support of this ramp should be considered adequate provided that (1) the design engineer has accounted for anticipated frost and thaw action, (2) the ramp is secured to the house landing or threshold, and (3) wood in contact with the ground is pressure treated to at least .401bs/cu. ft. of retention.
Other: As long as these ramps serve only single family, R-3 occupancies, they are not required to comply with the requirements of Chapter 134O, Facilities for the Handicapped.
The completed plans for the
ramp should include compliance with all applicable code provisions,
the detailed specifications and the certification of the Minnesota
registered engineer.
![[Scott D. McLellan signature]](graphics/rmp-17s.gif)
Scott D. McLellan, Building Code
Representative
Last year we built a ramp with the new system of support beam footings.
Our ramp hasn't shifted in the least. We have used it daily throughout all kinds of Minnesota weather without a problem. It was ideal for a residential setting and construction was relatively easy.
We organized a "ramping bee" and because we didn't need cement footings we were able to be more flexible in the construction and placement of the ramp."
-Gregory Knox-Carr
Ordering Materials
Example ramp:
Two level landings, each 58" x 98 1/2"; 29' of sloped surface required.
Use two 116" modules and two 58" modules to obtain the needed length
(other combinations are possible).
![[Drawing: overhead diagram of ramp segments]](graphics/ramp-18a.gif)
|
Draw an overhead view of the ramp
and make several copies. On the first copy, determine the number
of landings and modules needed. Pages
22 through 26 describe the materials needed. Begin
a materials list, keep a separate page for each landing and module
ordered so that during construction pieces can be matched to their
intended purpose.
|
![[Drawing: diagram of support positions]](graphics/ramp-18b.gif)
| On the next copy of your overhead view, determine the number of support structure needed. Pages 27 and 28 describe the materials needed. You can estimate how long each 4x4 needs to be by adding 34" to the distance between the ramp surface and the ground for each post location. Remember that the legs of the support structures do not have to be equal in length. Also, if you are placing 4x4s in the ground for handrail support at the bottom of the ramp add at least 2' for each sunken 4x4. Determine the 2x6s needed for the cross supports for the landings and modules. Add this material to your list. |
Now determine if 2x4 diagonal
bracing is needed, keeping in mind that diagonal bracing is needed
when the top of the cross support is more than 21" off the
ground, and that diagonal bracing is needed on each side of the
4x4 support posts. Also determine the number of gussets you will
need and the number of 1'x 1' plywood pads needed for the base
of the support posts (thirty-two 1'- square pads can be made from
a 4x8 sheet of 3/4"-thick plywood).
Determine the number of 3/8"
carriage bolts needed to connect modules and landings together
(three per connection). To determine number of 1/2" carriage
bolts, remember 4x4's with diagonal bracing require 10" bolts,
4x4's with gussets require 8" bolts, and 4x4's bolted to
only one cross support require 6" bolts.
The next step is to determine the
dimensions for the guardrail/ handrail (see page 34). Decide
if you are going to use plowed 2x6 for the top handrail or if
you will have a 1 1/2"-round handrail.
On the overhead view of the ramp
determine the lengths needed for the guardrail. You should have
an equal number of 2x6s and 2x4s. Use the longest possible continuous
2x6 for your top railing. If you have a 15' long section of ramp,
order 16' long boards. (Maintain a 4"-spacing between the
spindles, ten 30"-long spindles per 59" run of ramp).
The last step is to determine lumber
for steps or boardwalks that might be needed. You are now ready
to combine all of the lumber needed onto to a materials order
form (page 20). Keep the individual component sheets to refer
to during construction. This will reduce the chance of using the
wrong lumber for a particular component.
STATE SALES TAX LAW CHANGES
(State of Minnesota)Chair lifts, ramps, and elevaators and building materials used to install or construct them are exempt from sales tax if they are authorized by a physician and installed in or attached to the owner's homestead.
Sales tax must be paid on the purchases and a claim for refund filed by the owner of the homestead property to obtain a refund of the sales tax paid. If tax was paid by a contractor, the home owner must file a claim for refund of sales tax paid by the contractor including sufficient information to verify the amount of sales tax paid on the project. Contractors are required to furnish a statement to the home owner for material costs and taxes paid.
This exemption is effective for sales after Januaary 1, 1990.
![[photo of level landing at door]](graphics/fig21-1.jpg)
![[photo of first module added to landing]](graphics/fig21-2.jpg)
![[photo of intermediate landing]](graphics/fig21-3.jpg)
![[photo of trimmers and gussets to support ramp]](graphics/fig21-4.jpg)
![[photo of guardrails in place]](graphics/fig21-6.jpg)
![[exploded diagram of ramp section]](graphics/ramp-22a.gif)
Construction Notes:
116"-long x 42"-wide Ramping ModuleCan be used to replace two 58" modulesComponents:
4 2x6 by 113" Joists (Order four 2x6x10
and cut 4 joists)
2 2x6 by 42" End Pieces (Order one 2x6x8
and cut 2 end pieces)
20 5/4" x 6" by 42" Decking (Order 14'
decking and cut 4 pieces from each.
Five 14' decking equals twenty 42"
pieces.)
160 2 1/2" Deck Screws (8 per Decking Plank)
6 3" Deck Screws (To attach end pieces to
joists)
8 2x6 Joist Hangers
64 Joist Hanger Nails (8 per hanger)
3 2x6 Blocking at mid-point of module
(To maintain width and add stability)
12 3" Deck Screws for blocking
![[exploded diagram of ramp module]](graphics/ramp-23a.gif)
Construction Notes:
Choosing the width of your rampProper width of the ramp is important for the person using the ramp. A minimum of 36'' of clearance is needed and sometimes wider widths are advisable. The ramp modules can be made to the width that best meet the users needs. 39" and 42" wide modules have been described. If a wider ramp is desired, such as 48" wide, you need to adjust the materials ordered![[sketch of dimensions for 36 and 42-inch wide modules]](graphics/ramp-24a.gif)
58"-long x 60"-wide Landing ModuleUsed for level landings in right-angle ramps and sometimes at doorway.Components:
5 2x6 by 55" Joists (Order three 2x6x10
and cut five joists)
2 2x6 by 60" End Pieces (Order one 2x6x10
and cut two end pieces)
10 5/4x6 by 60" Decking (Order five 5/4x6
by 10 and cut ten pieces)
100 2 1/2" Deck Screws (10 per decking plank)
20 2 1/2" Deck Screws (to attach end pieces
to joists)
10 2x6 Joist Hangers
80 Joist Hanger Nails
![[exploded diagram of landing module]](graphics/ramp-25a.gif)
Construction Notes:
58"-long x 98 1/2"-wide Landing Module(for 42" modules)(use 92 1/2" wide module if using 39" ramping modules) Used for level landings in l80-degree switchback ramps and sometimes at doorway Components:
7 2x6 by 55" Joists (Order four 2x6x10
and cut seven joists)
2 2x6 by 98" End Pieces (Order two 2x6x10
and cut two endpieces)
10 5/4x6 by 98" Decking (Order ten 5/4x6
by 10 and cut ten pieces)
140 2 1/2" Deck Screws (10 per decking plank)
28 2 1/2" Deck Screws (to attach end pieces
to joists)
14 2x6 Joist Hangers
112 Joist Hanger Nails
Construction Notes:
Tall Support Structure(for 42" modules)Used when distance between top of cross support and plywood pad exceeds 21" Components:
2 4x4 Support Posts (Length determined by height
requirements of ramp
2 1'x 1' by 3/4" Treated Plywood Pads (Will be
screwed to bottom of 4x4 with three 3"
deck screws)
2 2x6 by 491/2" Cross Supports (Beveled to match
slope of ramp) use 46 1/2" cross supports
for 39" module
4 2x4 Trimmers (Length equals distance between
bottom of cross support and plywood pad.)
(Trimmers will be screwed to 4x4.)
2 2x4 Diagonal Braces (Length will be determined
by height of cross support)
4 1/2" x 10" Carriage Bolts with nuts and washers
(9/16" holes will be drilled in support
structures for these bolts)
Construction Notes:
Shorter Support Structure(for 42" modules)Used when distance between top of cross support and 1'x1'x3/4" pad is 12" to 21" Components:
2 4x4 Support Posts (Length determined by
height requirements of ramp
2 1'x 1' by 3/4" Treated Plywood Pads (Will
be screwed to bottom of 4x4 with three
3" deck screws)
2 2x6 by 49 1/2" Cross Supports (Beveled to
match slope of ramp) use 46 1/2" cross
supports for 39" module
4 2x4 Trimmers (Length equals distance between
bottom of cross support and plywood pad.)
(Trimmers will be screwed to 4x4.)
4 3/4"-thick Treated Plywood Gussets (see drawing
for dimensions) (Gussets will be screwed
to trimmer and cross supports with seven
screws per gusset.)
2 1/2" x 8" Carriage Bolts with nuts and washers
(9/16" holes will be drilled in support
structures for these bolts)
Construction Notes:
Onsite construction assembly procedures are provided in the following pages. Onsite construction assembly proceduresStraight, right-angle and switch-back layouts are shown.For illustrative purposes, a 58" x 7'11" level landing is shown at the doorway. The first sloped section is the same on all three ramps (much of the construction for all three styles is identical). All ramps have twenty-nine feet of sloped surface and could be made with 58" length modules, combinations of 116" and 58" modules. The design of the level landing at the doorway is critical to the functional use and construction of the ramp. Because of the wide variety of existing stoops and entry-way configurations, it is not possible to design a modular component that will meet the needs of all entry ways. Usually construction of the level landing requires customization on-site. Keep in mind the space requirements for use of the doorway and the requirements of the other users of the doorway (see page 8). Steps will often need to be built to the new landing to replace the old steps covered. Steps are probably the hardest component to build. Experienced builders should handle that task. Before beginning construction, be sure to review the design principles listed in this manual as a final check. It is easier to change the design before construction than after construction.
TO DETERMINE SLOPE OF THE RAMP(for ramp example shown)Run a 14'6" string line from top landing to where next level landing will begin. This line represents 1/2 of total vertical drop. Use a line level to determine horizontal height from top landing and measure 14 1/2" down. Bottom end of string line should be supported to this height. You will match the slope of the modules to this line. Remember that decking adds 1 1/4" to the vertical measurement. If you place a piece of decking on the landing where the string line starts, be sure to use decking for the entire run of the ramp.
TO HANG MODULES:
NOTE: Modules 1, 2, and 3 could be replaced with a 58" and a 116" module.
Completion of Straight RampNote: Place string line from end of level landing to point where ramp will end in order to determine proper ramp slope.
Check the end grain of each decking piece. Attach to joist so that the grain is facing down like a rainbow.
TRANSITION FROM RAMP TO GROUNDThe newly cut end of any piece of treated lumber that will be in ground contact should be protected with a fence post preservative type of product. Uncut ends do not need extra protection. Consult with the lumberyard where you purchased the lumber for advice on specific products.
![[enlarged sketch of end of ramp going into ground]](graphics/rmp33c2.gif)
TRANSITION FROM RAMP TO GROUND
![[sketch of end of ramp trimmed to ground with aluminum plate]](graphics/rmp33a1t.gif)
Aluminum diamond plate is skid resistant and provides a smooth transition from end of ramp to a hard surface. Attach the last piece of decking with four 1 1/4" flat head screws. Masonary screws can be used to attach plate to concrete.
![[marking tapered joist with 2x6]](graphics/rmp33a2a.gif)
Assemble one end piece of a module, NAILING HANGERS TO THE END PIECE ONLY. Place this end piece on top of ramp module as shown above and set a joist into each hanger making sure all 4 are parallel. The opposite end of the joist will rest on the ground. If the surface under the joist is uneven, try to level as much as possible. Place the 2x6 marking guide beside each joist and draw a pencil line from A to B. Remove each joist and cut along the pencil line. Bolt the end piece to the upper ramp module. Place tapered joist back in the hangers and install hanger nails into the two middle joists. You will be cutting a notch in the outside joists for the outrigger, so do not attach them to joist hangers until the outriggers are completed. Proceed as described above (page 33A). BOARDWALK TO CREATE HARD SURFACE FOR WALKING AND WHEELING
![[photo of lawn with snaking boardwalk]](graphics/rmp33b3.jpg) Landscaping fabric can be placed under the boardwalk to prevent plant growth between the decking boards.
![[side view detail of ramp transition to boardwalk]](graphics/rmp33b1.gif)
Boardwalk, leading from ramp to driveways or sidewalks, can be installed instead of concrete or asphalt walkways. Three 1x6 treated boards are staked to the ground with 1' long 2x4 stakes at 5' intervals. Decking boards are then attached to the three parallel runners. 2x2s can be screwed in place on each outside edge to act as a wheel guard. Any length boardwalk can easily be installed, with turns as needed. Boardwalk, like modular ramps and stairs, can be used as long as needed and then easily removed. The newly cut end of any piece of treated lumber that will be in ground contact should be protected with a fence post preservative type of product. Uncut ends do not need extra protection. Consult with the lumberyard where you purchased the lumber for advice on specific products.
GUARDRAIL/HANDRAIL
Note: Type of guardrail/handrail selection is based on needs of the user. It may be easier for someone to pull themselves up the ramp using the 1 1/2" round handrail rather than using the plowed-style of 2 x 6 handrail. |
![[exploded diagram of landing module]](graphics/ramp-26a.gif)
![[exploded diagram of support structure]](graphics/ramp-27a.gif)
![[exploded diagram of support structure]](graphics/ramp-28a.gif)
![[sketch of upper landing at doorway]](graphics/ramp-29a.gif)
![[sketch of supporting first ramp module]](graphics/ramp-30a.gif)
![[sketch of first ramp module in place]](graphics/ramp-31a.gif)
![[sketch of 3 ramp modules and start of mid-level landing]](graphics/ramp-31b.gif)
![[sketch of straight ramp fully framed]](graphics/ramp-32a.gif)
![[sketch of straight ramp fully decked]](graphics/ramp-33a.gif)
![[end view of outrigger construction]](graphics/rmp33a2.gif)
![[side view of outrigger construction and brace]](graphics/rmp33a3.gif)
![[front view detail of staked boardwalk construction]](graphics/rmp33b2.gif)
![[sketch of ramp with round handrail inside guardrails]](graphics/ramp-34a.gif)
![[sketch of ramp with plowed handrails in top of guardrails]](graphics/ramp-34b.gif)
![[detail side view of beveled guardrail spindle]](graphics/ramp34c.gif)
COMPLETED STRAIGHT RAMP
![[sketch of completed straight ramp]](graphics/rmp34d.gif)
RIGHT ANGLE TURN
NOTE: To build a ramp with a right-angle turn, complete the first section of the
ramp as described in previous pages (the lengths of each section do not need to be equal,
ex: a 14'6" top section and 9' 8" lower section could be used). Use a 58"x 60" platform and support
with 58"-long cross supports. Right Angle Turn Transition to Ground
NOTE: The same options for transition to the ground are used for this design.Guardrail/handrail options are also the same except an additional 4x4 post is used at the inside corner of the landing so that guardrail can be attached at the corner of the landing.
![[top view of mid landing showing fifth 4x4]](graphics/ramp-36b.gif)
4x4 posts are positioned so that guardrails is above outside 1 1/2" perimeter of landings and slope. 3" screws are used to attach rail to posts, always inserting screw through rail and then into 4x4 180 DEGREE RAMPTo build a ramp with a 180-degree turn, complete the first section of the ramp as described in previous pages (the lengths of each section do not need to be equal, ex: a 19'4" top section and a 14'6" lower section could be used). Use a 58'x98 1/2" platform and support with 98 1/2" cross supports.
180 Degree Ramp Continued
Note: The same options for transition to the ground are used for this design.
|
![[sketch of 3 ramp modules and wide mid-level landing]](graphics/rmp35a.gif)
![[sketch of final section leaving mid-landing at 90 degree angle]](graphics/ramp-36a.gif)
![[sketch of ramp and mid-level landing's 4x4 posts]](graphics/ramp-37a.gif)
![[ramp after attaching mid-level landing]](graphics/ramp-37b.gif)
![[ramp continuing to ground]](graphics/ramp-38a.gif)
![[cartoon of tools]](graphics/ramp-39a.gif)
![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp43as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp43al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Ramp Module Framing Plan S2A
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![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp44as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp44al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Support Elevations S3A
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![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp45as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp45al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Support Elevation S4A
Rudin Drawing: Framing Plan S1C
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![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp45bs.gif)
![[engineering drawing of framing plan]](graphics/ramp46as.gif)
![[large engineering drawing of framing plan]](graphics/ramp46al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Ramp Module Framing Plan S2C
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![[engineering drawing of framing plan]](graphics/ramp47as.gif)
![[large engineering drawing of framing plan]](graphics/ramp47al.gif)
Rudin Drawing:Support Elevations S3C
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![[engineering drawing of supports]](graphics/ramp48as.gif)
![[full sized engineering drawing of supports]](graphics/ramp48al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Framing Plan S1F
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![[engineering drawing of framing plan]](graphics/ramp49as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of framing plan]](graphics/ramp49al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Step Module Framing Plan S2F
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![[engineering drawing of step framing plan]](graphics/ramp50as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of step framing plan]](graphics/ramp50al.gif)
Rudin Drawing: Step Supports Elevation S3F
Rudin Drawing: Step Supports Elevation S3F
Rudin Drawing: Right-Angle Turn Support S4F Elevation
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![[engineering drawing of step supports]](graphics/ramp51as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of support framing plan]](graphics/ramp52as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of Right Angle Turn framing]](graphics/ramp52al.gif)
Rudin Structures General NotesStep Drawings by: Drafting by AccessabilityStair Plotting by: Mpls Rehab Center Computer Assisted Design Training Program Rudin Structures General Notes:
Rudin Drawing: 180-degree Turn Framing Plan S1G
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![[engineering drawing of 180-degree Turn framing]](graphics/ramp53as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of 180-degree turn framing]](graphics/ramp53al.gif)
Rudin Drawing:180-degree Turn Step Module Framing Plan S2G
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![[engineering drawing of 180-degree turn step framing]](graphics/ramp54as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of 180-degree turn step framing]](graphics/ramp54al.gif)
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Rudin Drawing: 180-degree Turn Step Supports Elevation S3G
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![[engineering drawing of 180-degree turn step supports]](graphics/ramp55as.gif)
![[engineering drawing of 180-degree turn step supports]](graphics/ramp55al.gif)
LONG-TREAD LOW-RISER STEPSPROPERLY DESIGNED RAMPS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED AS THE FIRST CHOICE FOR SAFE WHEELCHAIR MOVEMENT. WHEN A RAMP IS IMPRACTICAL, THE LONG TREAD LOW RISER STEPS PROVIDE A SAFER ALTERNATIVE THAN CARRYING AN OCCUPIED WHEELCHAIR ON REGULAR STEPS. LONG TREAD, LOW-RISER STEPS ARE NOT APPROPRIATE FOR INDEPENDENT USE BY A PERSON USING A WHEELCHAIR AND ARE NO INTENDED TO REPLACE PROPERLY DESIGNED RAMPS. ELECTRIC WHEELCHAIRS AND BATTERY POWERED CART SHOULD NOT BE USED Wl1 THIS TYPE OF STEP. Long-tread low-riser steps have been found to be helpful for people who may use a walker, crutches or canes for assistance in walking or who have difficulty with existing steps to their home. Several examples of this style of step can be seen in THE RAMP PROJECT TELECONFERENCE, which is the video companion to this manual. The long-tread, low-riser steps are most appropriately used by people who have some walking ability, but find regular steps difficult. For the steps to be safe and easy to use, it is very important to determine the correct height of the riser, (the vertical drop between the level treads) for the person who will be using the stairs. It is advisable to check with medical personnel, such as physical therapists, to determine the best riser height. A small variation can make the steps much more difficult to use. Construct the steps with the riser height that is most functional for the user. A range of 3 1/2 inches to 5 inches can be built with the design in this manual. Be sure that the tread (the level part of the step that you stand on) is long enough to accommodate any assistive devices being used. This is most important for people using a walker, to insure that the walker can be placed with all 4 legs on each tread. The tread length described in this manual is 34" long. Before building the steps make sure that any device being used will fit on the tread and that the intended user will be able to use this type of step. MINNESOTA BUILDING CODE REQUIRES THAT EITHER TREAD LENGTH OR RISER HEIGHT VARY NO MORE THAN 3/8 OF AN INCH. TREADS SHOULD BE EQUAL IN LENGTH AND RISERS SHOULD BE AS CLOSE TO EQUAL IN HEIGHT AS POSSIBLE. HOW TO FIND NUMBER OF RISERS AND TREADS NEEDED FOR YOUR LOCATION
![[sketch of side view of two tread modules attachments]](graphics/ramp-57.gif)
STANDARD STAIR MODULE(for tread length of 34" and riser heights between 3 1/2" and 5")Components:
1 2x4 by 39"front end piece
2 2x4 by 37 1/2" outside joists
1 2x4 by 36" back end piece
2 2x4 by 31" inside joists
6 5/4"x6" by 39" decking
(order two 10' decking and cut 39" long
pieces from them)
48 2 1/2" deck galvanized deck screws
(8 per decking plank)
16 3" galvanized deck screws (to attach
end pieces to joists)
8 2x4 joist hangers
4 3" galvanizes deck screws (to attach
front end piece joist hanger)
48 joist hanger nails
Construction Notes:
See pages 25 and 26 for door and turn landing options. When attaching a step to a landing made with 2x6s, make the outside joists of the step module 34" long instead of 37 1/2" long. This allows the 34" tread length to be maintained. See page 61 for installation details. Taller Support Structure (for 39" modules)Used when distance between top of cross support and plywood pad exceeds 21"Components:
2 4x4 Support Posts (Length-determined
by height requirements of stairs
2 l'x 1' by 3/4" Treated Plywood Pads
(Will be screwed to bottom of 4x4
with three 3" deck screws)
2 2x6 by 45 1/2" Cross Supports
4 2x4 Trimmers (Length equals distance
between bottom of cross support
and plywood pad.) (Trimmers will
be screwed to 4x4.)
2 2x4 Diagonal Braces (Length will be
determined by height of cross
support)
Construction Notes:
Shorter Support Structure (for 39" modules)Used when distance between top of cross support and 1'x1'x 3/4" pad is 12" to 21"Components:
2 4x4 Support Posts (Length-determined
by height requirements of stair
2 l'x 1' by 3/4" Treated Plywood Pads
(Will be screwed to bottom of 4x4
with three 3" deck screws)
2 2x6 46 1/2" Cross Supports for 39"
module
4 2x4 Trimmers (Length equals distance
between bottom of cross support
and plywood pad.) (Trimmers will
be screwed to 4x4.)
4 3/4"-thick Treated Plywood Gussets
(see drawing for dimensions)
(Gussets will be screwed to
trimmer and cross supports with
seven screws per gusset.) use
2 l/2" screws
Construction Notes:
Long-Tread Stair Construction ProceduresThe building process for these steps is very similar to the process to build ramps, described on pages 29 through 34 of this manual. The same considerations for landings at the door and starting construction at the top and progressing down in a progressive fashion apply. Note that neither 3/8" bolts nor 1/2" bolts are called for in the engineering documents for the long-tread low-riser steps.TO HANG STAIR MODULES
Long-Tread Stair Final NotesWhen working over concrete, you will need to cut down the height of the bottom module, if your riser height is less than 4 3/4" high because the module with decking on it has a 4 3/4" riser. Make a shorter module by cutting all module 2x4s to the height needed. Remember to compute the 1 1/4" thickness of the decking. If the module height is reduced, brace the two front bottom 4x4s as shown. You can also use this bracing for guardrail stability, even if the module is not shortened.
You may have to remove dirt to achieve the proper riser heights when not building over a hard surface such as concrete. You may rest the module on 39" long 2x6 boards laid underneath and across each end of the module. Be sure to attach module to those boards by toe-nailing screws through the end pieces into the 2x6. The two front bottom 4x4s can be placed in 24" deep post holes to provide stability for the guardrail. Boardwalk (shown on page 33b) can be installed if desired. Be sure the riser height is equal for all steps, including the one to the boardwalk.
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![[top view of stair module]](graphics/ramp-58a.gif)
![[exploded view of stair support]](graphics/ramp-59a.gif)
![[exploded view of shorter stair support]](graphics/ramp-60a.gif)
![[detail drawing of support post attachment to outside joist]](graphics/ramp-61.gif)
![[side view of step construction details]](graphics/ramp-62.gif)
